Welcome to the Zapper Lab. Here we have the step-by-step instructions for building your very own Hulda Clark Zapper, reprinted with permission from the books by Dr. Hulda Clark. Dr. Clark has improved her original zapper circuit and published this update in 2003. Knowing her readers have varying experience with building electronics, this recent update released several different sets of instructions on how to build a zapper, depending on one's electronic expertise.
If you do not know anyone who could put one together for you, you can order a pre-built Zapper at the web site, www.ClarkZapper.com. Remember, the Hulda Clark Zapper is not a licensed medical device. It has not been tested by the FDA or AMA for use on humans or animals. The Clark Zapper can be sold and used only as an experimental device, and no claim can be made as to a diagnosis, cure or treatment for any medical condition or disease. Dr. Clark's book states to not experiment with a zapper if you are either pregnant or wearing an electronic pacemaker. Please be sure to read one of Dr. Clark's books before using a Hulda Clark Zapper.
How To Build A Hulda
Parts List for the 30,000 Hz Zapper Circuit
|Item||Radio Shack Catalog Number|
|Use Shoebox or Buy a Plastic Project Box||270-1809|
|9 volt battery|
|9 volt battery snap connector||270-324 (set of 5 you need 1)|
|on-off toggle switch||275-624A micro mini toggle switch|
|If not available, choose any toggle switch with holes in the contact points or Radio Shack 275-612|
|1 K Ohm resistor, brown-black-red-gold||271-312 (500 piece assortment) use 2|
|3.9 K Ohm resistor, orange-white-red-gold||Use 2 from 500 piece assortment|
|39 K Ohm resistor, orange-white-orange-gold||From 500 piece assortment|
|low-current red LED||276-044|
|.0047 uF capacitor||272-130 (set of 2, you need 1)|
|.01 uF capacitor||272-131 (set of 2, you need 1)|
|555 CMOS timer chip (TLC 555)||276-1718 (you may wish to buy a spare)|
|8 pin wire-wrapping socket for the chip||900-7242|
|If only 16 pin sockets are available, cut one in half OR leave half empty. Editor's Note: These parts have been discontinued at most Radio Shacks. 8 pin wire wrap sockets are available at many other electrical supply stores such as: www.PositiveOffset.com|
|short (12") alligator clip leads||any electronics shop, get 10|
|If not available, use 14" length from Radio Shack, 278-1156|
|Micro clip jumper wires||278-017 (you need 2 packages of 2)|
|If not available, use mini-clip jumper wires 278-016|
|2 bolts, about 1/8" diameter, 2" long, with 4 nuts and 4 washers||hardware store|
|2 copper pipes, 3/4" diameter, 4" long||hardware store|
|Sharp knife, pin, long-nose pliers, tape, 4 twist ties or rubber bands.|
The 8 pin wire-wrapping socket has been discontinued at many Radio Shacks and readers have asked what to do. We know a great electrical supply store where 8 pin wire wrap sockets are available, as well as easy-to-build science kits for making a 30,000 Hz Frequency Generator with all the parts listed above in one simple package.
A Hulda Clark zapper is basically just a common Frequency Generator set at 30,000 Hz, with a 100% positive offset square wave. The cost for the electrical parts to build one is about $30-$40 for them all. Visit the electrical suppliers at PositiveOffset.com for all your electrical needs. They have everything you'd need to build a basic 30,000 Hz Positive Offset Square Wave Frequency Generator, and their kit is much easier to build than the instructions given below, because it uses a breadboard so there is no need to twist or solder wires, you simply push the electrical parts into place on the breadboard. -editor.
If you have tools such as a drill, needle nose pliers, and small drill bits, buy one of the plastic project boxes on the list, otherwise build your zapper in a shoe box, or a box half the size of a shoe box.
1. You will be using the lid of the shoe box or plastic lid of the project box to mount the components. Save the box to enclose the finished project.
2. Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one hole "grounding bolt" on the inside and outside.
3. Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the "top end" of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket until they click in place.
4. Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the numbers of the pins (connections) on both the outside and inside, starting with number one to the left of the "cookie bite" as seen from outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8 will be across from number 1. The pins are numbered like this:
5. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart very near to pins 5,6,7, and 8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each component can share a hole with the 555 chip.) Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the long-nose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 K Ohm resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 K Ohm resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.
6. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 K Ohm resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9 K Ohm resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.
7. Next to the 3.9 K Ohm resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart for the LED. Notice that the LED has a positive and a negative connection. The longer wire is the positive (anode). Mount the LED on the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and - on the inside.
8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.
9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Do not attach the battery yet.
10. An inch away from the switch pierce two holes 1/4 inch apart. Mount the 39 K Ohm resistor on the outside and label it inside and outside as "39 K, Positive offset." Flatten the wires on the inside.
Now To Connect Everything
1. Twist free ends of the two capacitors .01 and .0047 together. Connect this to the Grounding Bolt using an alligator clip.
2. Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9 K Ohm resistor by pin 7.
3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1 K Ohm resistor attached to pin 8.
4. Using three micro clips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, pin 4 to the same end of the switch, and one end of the offset resistor to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hooks around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.) Connect the free end of the offset resistor to the bolt using an alligator clip.
5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the 1 K Ohm resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt. It is the output resistor.
6. Twist the free end of the 3.9 K Ohm resistor by pin 3 around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold.
9. Connect the minus end of the battery snap connector (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
10. Connect the plus end of the battery snap connector (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a micro clip lead. Attach the battery very carefully. Before attaching the battery to its snap connector, cover one terminal with tape. After snapping in one terminal, remove the tape to attach the other terminal. This is to prevent accidental touching of terminals in a backwards direction. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery. Even if it does light up, check every connection again.
11. Finally tie up the bunches of wire with twist-ties or rubber bands and replace the lid on the box. Slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut. For safer storage, place it inside a larger box.
Note: Having gained this much experience, you may prefer to build your next zapper on a piece of cardboard folded and able to fit inside a shoebox or plastic electronic project box for more protection.
Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz. The shop can also read the voltage (peak to peak) and the amount of Positive offset (on the .5 volt-per-division scale). The voltage output should be about 8 volts.
Note: a voltage meter will only read 4 to 5 volts because it displays an average voltage.
1. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using. More will reduce the current. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap. Keep a bottle of water handy to keep them wet.
2. Zap for seven minutes, let go of the handholds, turn off the zapper, and rest for 20 minutes. Then seven minutes on, 20 minutes rest, and a final seven minutes on. This is the routine for regular zapping.
Tell us about your zapper experience at the zapper message board.
Learn about Dr Clark's latest zapping technique called: Plate Zapping
The Cure For All Cancers © Copyright 1993 by Hulda Regehr Clark, Ph.D., N.D.